28 december


Wake up very early as always, even if I don’t have many kilometers. I have to do customs in Gabon, which is right in Ndendè. It should open at seven, but the first immigration employees arrive comfortably at eight. My visa is fine but there is no commander, who arrives comfortably at half past nine. The bike is in pitiful conditions, I do at least a little maintenance on the chain. Once my passport is recovered, I go to the fuel station, I can’t even get gas here, because it doesn’t accept dollars. I still have enough fuel to get to the next larger city where there is a bank. After about a couple of hours I arrive in Mouila, but I can’t even withdraw, my credit cards do not recognize Gabon. I go to the distributor to see if I can pay in dollars, but nothing, the staff are not only rude, but they are almost annoyed when I tell them that I can’t go on. It is at that moment that I realize again that the shit heads are everywhere. But I don’t lose heart, I try and find a small shop that changes dollars, a theft, but I have no alternative. I can refuel and leave again. Arrival in Lambarenè in the early afternoon. It is an ugly town, there is not a big one and that little is along the way. I have to find a place to sleep but I have no local money, even here the bank does not accept my credit cards. The only exchange office is closed, it will reopen tomorrow. In the end, by dint of turning and breaking the boxes at people, I find a small drink shop, the owner speaks English and therefore I can both exchange dollars, a little better than the day before, and find an internet point to communicate that’s all right. I can find sleep on a mission for little money, but the room is truly scary. It doesn’t matter, I’ve slept in worse places, that’s okay. I don’t trust eating in restaurants along the way, I’m tired and if I get sick now I risk staying still for many days. I decide to take a loaf of bread and a few boxes of sardines in oil, those don’t hurt me for sure. I settle things and go to bed very early, tomorrow morning I want to leave at dawn.